Brent Lewin Photography

Elephants: The Elephant In The Room

Elephants, revered symbols of Thailand’s glorified past, have long walked side by side with the monarchy and common farmers alike. The indispensable role of elephants in Thai society has been captured in countless tales and works of art along temple walls. More recently, elephants have been represented as cultural icons and used in the commercial branding of countless products. One would be hard pressed to look in any direction in the capital and not find an elephant motif somewhere. But for all the iconic representations of elephants as symbols of strength, dignity and prosperity, in reality the only elephants seen in Bangkok are those being led by their mahouts, wandering the congested streets begging.  

Groups of mahouts from farming villages in Surin province have long been coming to Bangkok to squat in fields and walk the streets, offering tourists the opportunity to feed their pet elephants sugarcane for a couple of dollars. With no income beyond a short farming season, the mahouts claim that traveling to urban centres with their elephants is a matter of survival. 

Although it is illegal to bring elephants into Bangkok, the poverty in Thailand’s rural areas, the loss of the elephants’ natural habitat, the resulting threat of starvation and the elephant’s special status in Thai history evoke sympathy among Thais. Most police, politicians and citizens continue to turn a blind eye to the urban elephants, failing to address the underlying issues and allowing the situation to remain ‘the elephant in the room.’ 

  • Street elephant Beepoe walks down a street in Bangkok.
  • The foot of mahout Jazz rests near the ear of elephant Ma Meio in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok. Mahouts often use their feet to control, or drive, their elephants.
  • A shackled domesticated elephant pulls on it's chain at patch of land in Bangkok.
  • Mahout Ooau rides elephant Boopae on Sukhumvit road in Bangkok.
  • Shadows are cast from mahout, Wan, left, and his pet elephant Boopae as they walk down Sukhumvit road in Bangkok.
  • Elephant Gamlai stands in a temporary camp before heading out to work in Bangkok.
  • A picture featuring the King of Thailand greeting the royal white elephant hangs in a shop in Surin. The white elephant is considered to be the most important of its kind. To aquire one during a King's reign is believed to bring prosperity and happiness throughout the kingdom.
  • Mahout Ooau looks off as a customer feeds sugarcane to elephant Boopae in the Sukhumvit tourist area of Bangkok.
  • A mahout and his elephant wait stranded on the centre median of a main road in Bangkok.
  • A mahout rides an elephant across a road in Bangkok.
  • Mahout Pui wakes up at a temporary camp near Rama 9 road in Bangkok.
  • Decorated street elephant Gamlai prepares to head out for an evening of work in Bangkok.
  • Mahout Bang poses with elephant Beepoe at a temporary camp in Bangkok.
  • Ooau leads elephant Boopae through a traffic jam on Sukhumvit road in Bangkok.
  • Ooau's father Suk Sarmak, left, mother Goong and daughter Boopae stand at their home in Surin province. Ooau''s daughter was named after their pet elephant bearing the same name. Elephants have been a part of the family for generations. When eucalyptus plantations began replacing forests many of the elephants in Surin soon were left without food and their owners were forced to buy bamboo at prices they couldn't afford. With no income outside of the rice-growing season Suk was forced to explore other ways to make money and feed his pet elephant Boopae. After discovering the potential to earn money in the tourist areas of Bangkok Suk began living there off and on. Growing old he passed the responsibilty of taking care of Boopae to his daughter and her boyfriend.
  • Mahout Wan poses with elephant Boopae near a temporary camp in Bangkok.
  • After a night of work mahout Wan leads girlfriend Ooau and elephant Boopae back to their tent in a patch of field near Rama 9 road in Bangkok.
  • Wan's sister Aor stands at their family farm in Surin province. Outside of a short rice-farming season Surin remains a dry and hot environment most of the year leaving rice-farmers with little to no income. As a result members of most farming families end up in urban centres like Bangkok seaching for employment.
  • Mahout Bang decorates elephant Gamlai before heading off for a night of work on Bangkok's streets.
  • Elephant Boopae prepares to head out for an evening of work in Bangkok.
  • After a night of work, Jazz and Pui ride elephant Ma Meio back to their temporary camp in Bangkok.
  • Mahouts Ooau, left, and Wan pass a homeless woman and child in the tourist area of Sukhumvit in Bangkok.
  • A reflector used for traffic sits fastened to elephant Ma Meio in the Sukhumvit tourist area in Bangkok.
  • Mahout Ooae washes elephant Boopae before heading off to work the streets of Bangkok.
  • Mahout Jazz sits in front of her tent at a temporary camp near Rama 9 road in Bangkok.
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